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Details about Faleza Mare

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Route details Height Grade Beauty
Route name
30m 7a+

Passing through the tunnel from the left end of the wall, you wil..

Passing through the tunnel from the left end of the wall, you will see an impressive overhanging dihedral. This is the line of "Bavaria" route. Technical start on face climbing. Continue then using layback technique along the rounded margins of the dihedral upward and right and then up the face to the lower-off.



Bolted by: Titus Gontea



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30m 7c

The climb starts just right from "Bavaria". After the steep entry..

The climb starts just right from "Bavaria". After the steep entry face (crux), continue on the beautiful technical face to the top. It shares the lower-off with "Bavaria".



Bolted by: Titus Gontea



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30m 7a+

3 Galeti

Technical start on good pockets, the follows the crux (long reach..

Technical start on good pockets, the follows the crux (long reach). The second half wanders on big holds to the top.



Bolted by: Titus Gontea



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23m 7b

4 Onedin

Located just before the tunnel on the right side of the wall. Bea..

Located just before the tunnel on the right side of the wall. Beautifull face climbing. Shares the lower-off with "Galeti".





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35m 7b+

The line goes on the face above the tunnel in the right side of t..

The line goes on the face above the tunnel in the right side of the sector. Steep climbing in the upper section.





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22m 6b

This is the first route right of the tunnel. Start with balance m..

This is the first route right of the tunnel. Start with balance moves on a vertical face then continue with long moves on pockets and jugs. Just before the top, traverse right to the lower-off.





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37m 8a+?

This is an extension of L'Amour a Distance. Starts with ha..

This is an extension of L'Amour a Distance. Starts with hard moves on the face just after the intermediate chain. The finish is easy terrain.





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30m 6b

This is the first route which was bolted in "Tamina" (author Titu..

This is the first route which was bolted in "Tamina" (author Titus Gontea, 2007). Start with delicate climbing on the face and then continue up the bulgy section. Here you have to take care on the loose rock! After a good rest place climb the fantastic straight crack. Your imagination is stretched to the limit using the most varied techniques: layback, foot-jams or friction climbing. The end of the crack is the end of the route.



Bolted by: Titus Gontea



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30m 7b+

9 Rictus

Long and sustained route. Technical face climbing on small holds.

Long and sustained route. Technical face climbing on small holds.



Bolted by: Titus Gontea



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50m 8b?

Fantastic sustained climbing up to a 50m line which goes right fr..

Fantastic sustained climbing up to a 50m line which goes right from Rictus route, just before its lower-off.





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30m 7c

11 Nexit

Steep and sustained face climbing, but don't worry, there are som..

Steep and sustained face climbing, but don't worry, there are some rest places where you can shake your arms. Excellent rock quality.





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40m 8a

Start on the pillar with the dihedral, then continue up the face ..

Start on the pillar with the dihedral, then continue up the face on balance moves. After passing a steep section, enjoy sustained and technical climbing to the top.





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30m 6c+

13 Charon

Climb the entry pillar and then traverse right through the small ..

Climb the entry pillar and then traverse right through the small cave. Good hand holds. After a long reach slightly to the left (crux), go upward and right on easy terrain until there are no more holds in the upright direction. Traverse left to the base of an obvious crack (crux). From here climb straight upward. Another long move and you are at the anchor.





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48m 8a+?

Extension of Charon. Sustained.

Extension of Charon. Sustained.





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30m 7b

Difficult start. The upper section is common with "Charon".

Difficult start. The upper section is common with "Charon".





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22m 7b+

Sharp edge climbing in lower section (crux), then sustained climb..

Sharp edge climbing in lower section (crux), then sustained climbing on the second half.





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28m 6b+

Technical balance at the start on a small pillar but with a huge ..

Technical balance at the start on a small pillar but with a huge ledge as a rest place. Continue up the slab face which necessitates a good foot technique until you reach a small ledge - another rest place. The final steep section is on big holds, but you need some endurance to reach the lower-off.





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10m 5a

Warm-up route. Climb the crack on the right to the top.

Warm-up route. Climb the crack on the right to the top.





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15m 7b

The line goes along the crack upward and right.

The line goes along the crack upward and right.





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32m 8a

Sustained crack climbing followed by more sustained face climbing..

Sustained crack climbing followed by more sustained face climbing.



Bolted by: Titus Gontea



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