Rock Climbing in Romania

Highlights: This crag is located in a very picturesque area, above Magura village.

Climbing: There are two sectors here. In the Faleza Mica sector, located in a saddle, there are several short and medium difficulty routes, mostly on slab face. The Faleza Mare sector is still being developed. The rock is limestone, featuring mostly face climbing.

Getting here: Start with the car from the old town centre of Zarnesti, cross the town heading SW until you reach the Gura Raului chalet. Continue driving on the country road (marked with blue stripe, yellow stripe and red cross) along the river to your left. After you pass an old quarry you'll reach the Botorog spring. Just after the Botorog spring the road forks. Follow the road to the left (marked with red stripe), by crossing the river. Continue driving until you reach Magura village. Park the car in the small parking place, just before the church (30 minutes drive). From here walk along the country road which descents in a gentle slope. On your left on the top of the hill you'll see the crag. When you reach a hairpin turn to the right where the road forks (10 minutes walk), follow the road to the left (marked with blue triangle), along a beautiful valley until you see the last house (15 minutes walk). Just before reaching the last house, go upwards and left on a trail which zigzags up the hill. Take care because you'll have to leave the marked path to the left, passing a small spring before reaching Faleza Mare (30 minutes walk).

Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts with chain lower-offs. Most of the routes have been equipped during a course on how to bolt sport climbing routes.

Sun: By its exposure towards South and its position, the crag is in the sun all day long.

Rain: On rainy days the crag gets wet easily, but dries quickly due to the winds.

Seasons: The best time to climb here is from spring until autumn. It is not possible to climb here in winter time.